Showing posts with label of. Show all posts
Showing posts with label of. Show all posts
Thursday, February 20, 2014
More Methods of Work
I am no great designer, let me start out by saying that. This post is not about showing off my design abilities. I do try to pay attention to the golden ratio and classical shapes when I create something from scratch but mostly I just try to come up with usable, functional ideas that will be of a good proportion. I fall back on my instincts for most of this and believe they lead me in the right direction most of the time. Now my brain can get in the way of my instincts, the trick is to control this rivalry.
As I have written here before I did not take a single shop class all the way through my years of formal education. For what ever stupid reasons I had, it did not appeal to me as an elective. I did, however, take every single art or humanity class I could get my feet into. I competed in state competitions in a program called "Visual Arts Classic" and won a few blue ribbons, (back when blue ribbons meant something other than being a participant). My work was never technical or clean, instead I focused on emotion in the art I created, trying to get it to feel right. I really thought for many of my younger years that when I grew up I was going to make my living as an artist.
You may think that since I have found woodworking now, I probably enjoyed three dimensional art like sculpture. That couldnt be farther from the truth. I hated sculpture, drawing was my real thing, a little painting too, but that was always an extension of the application of graphite or charcoal to paper. The great thing about my media of choice is that it was always immediately accessible. I would draw all the time, fill up sketch pad after sketch pad, drawing things from my mind, and from the real world too.Real life took over after high school and a lot of that fell to the side. I have still always toted around a sketch book though, to jot a quick doodle or write down a line of poetry or dirty limerick that comes to mind.
It should be no surprise though, that my creation process begins in my sketch book and evolves from there. When I get an idea for a piece and it starts with a rough sketch, no real concern for getting exact in the measurements, that comes later, just some rough guesses and a picture or two drawn in proportion to get the idea out of my head and before my eyes, where I can play with it.
To demonstrate this I have scanned the process I went through for my next project. A pair of saw horses, (I know, I know, Ohhhhhh...Ahhhhhh...) Seriously though, I have always built saw horses for power tool use, roughly the height of my table saw, lifting the work high so I can see it and stand up straight. But with my new adventures into hand tools, I find the need for some more traditional sawhorses of a lower height.
The first pic here is the first sketch I made after thinking about what I wanted in a saw horse. I was a little enamored of a "V" shaped relief cut into one end, used to start rip cuts, or smaller shorter cuts. I had seen in this style in a picture on the net and I thought I could improve on it by bisecting the saw horse top the whole way down. I though, "maybe I could even get away with just one saw horse if I can use this middle relief for ripping. The design of the legs I liked, these pieces will get use in front of some crowds at renaissance and medieval fairs and festivals and I want them to pop a little. I drew this up in mid February and let the idea percolate a bit in my head.

Here is the final sketch. After thinking about the center relief I decided that supporting the wood on both sides might lead to some pinching and binding while using a push style saw. I certainly did not want these puppies to make the work more difficult. So I reconfigured the design, more solid on my measurements and settling on the "V" relief. The carving into the legs remained. This was my favorite part of the first design.

The next step from having a sketch is to make a scale drawing of graph paper. At this point I try to work out final sizes and proportions, I continue to work back and forth between the sketch and the scale drawing, making notes on specific joints, maybe a finish idea, reminders for myself. Typically speaking I will have both the sketch and scale drawing sitting out to refer to regularly while I work on a piece. A pair of sawhorses is pretty straight forward, it did not require a lot of notes, often the page is full of them, including close up visualizations of problem joints and ideas.
The other thing I really like to do, (but have not taken the chance to do in the Wood Shop Jr. yet) is to use a cork-board and thumbtacks to hang up dozens and dozens of drawings, pictures printed off the computer, reminders and ideas. This gives me a chance to pass by them on a daily basis, this keeps them in my head and helps a lot with solving a troublesome design. Here is a pic from one of my previous shop incarnations that shows the board at work, directly at the bottom of the stairs into the shop. First thing I would see. I do hope to recreate this again someday in a full size shop. . . Ahhh pipe-dreams, so sweet.
Well there you go, tomorrow is Saturday and hopefully I can set real life to one side for a while and get into the shop. Got a flea market on my radar in the morning though . . . wish me good luck and happy hunting :)
Cheers!
Oldwolf
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As I have written here before I did not take a single shop class all the way through my years of formal education. For what ever stupid reasons I had, it did not appeal to me as an elective. I did, however, take every single art or humanity class I could get my feet into. I competed in state competitions in a program called "Visual Arts Classic" and won a few blue ribbons, (back when blue ribbons meant something other than being a participant). My work was never technical or clean, instead I focused on emotion in the art I created, trying to get it to feel right. I really thought for many of my younger years that when I grew up I was going to make my living as an artist.
You may think that since I have found woodworking now, I probably enjoyed three dimensional art like sculpture. That couldnt be farther from the truth. I hated sculpture, drawing was my real thing, a little painting too, but that was always an extension of the application of graphite or charcoal to paper. The great thing about my media of choice is that it was always immediately accessible. I would draw all the time, fill up sketch pad after sketch pad, drawing things from my mind, and from the real world too.Real life took over after high school and a lot of that fell to the side. I have still always toted around a sketch book though, to jot a quick doodle or write down a line of poetry or dirty limerick that comes to mind.
It should be no surprise though, that my creation process begins in my sketch book and evolves from there. When I get an idea for a piece and it starts with a rough sketch, no real concern for getting exact in the measurements, that comes later, just some rough guesses and a picture or two drawn in proportion to get the idea out of my head and before my eyes, where I can play with it.
To demonstrate this I have scanned the process I went through for my next project. A pair of saw horses, (I know, I know, Ohhhhhh...Ahhhhhh...) Seriously though, I have always built saw horses for power tool use, roughly the height of my table saw, lifting the work high so I can see it and stand up straight. But with my new adventures into hand tools, I find the need for some more traditional sawhorses of a lower height.


Here is the final sketch. After thinking about the center relief I decided that supporting the wood on both sides might lead to some pinching and binding while using a push style saw. I certainly did not want these puppies to make the work more difficult. So I reconfigured the design, more solid on my measurements and settling on the "V" relief. The carving into the legs remained. This was my favorite part of the first design.

The next step from having a sketch is to make a scale drawing of graph paper. At this point I try to work out final sizes and proportions, I continue to work back and forth between the sketch and the scale drawing, making notes on specific joints, maybe a finish idea, reminders for myself. Typically speaking I will have both the sketch and scale drawing sitting out to refer to regularly while I work on a piece. A pair of sawhorses is pretty straight forward, it did not require a lot of notes, often the page is full of them, including close up visualizations of problem joints and ideas.
Well there you go, tomorrow is Saturday and hopefully I can set real life to one side for a while and get into the shop. Got a flea market on my radar in the morning though . . . wish me good luck and happy hunting :)
Cheers!
Oldwolf
Monday, February 17, 2014
Some Of Your Common Hand Tools
This article contains an over view of the most common home repairs and its needed tools. You also read about some materials that you’ll need to complete your work. You can end up with a considerable expense if you have specific work around the home that needs to be done. If you do rent the tool(s), do your best to complete the work the same day, so that you won’t acquire a larger rental fee than necessary.
You will need some of your common hand tools such as a grading rake, line leveler, and hand tamp. You’ll aso require a common garden rake and wheel barrow, in order to work around your home foundation, Are you thinking of doing some interior work? And you’ll need to pull together drills and screwdrivers. Well you’re at tit find a hammer, paintbrushes, and scrapers. You’ll likely find a glue gun, pliers, and awl helpful. For more extensive interior design a roller, set of wallboard knives and tile pliers will be needed. You might want to round out the tool kit with a type of stud finder, syringe and adhesive applicator.
For example to facilitate repairs to the plaster, you’ll need a paintbrush and a wallboard knife. Plaster restoration requires more supplies and materials than it does tools. When repairing plaster, numerous hand tools will help. For drywall repair or installation, you will require a hammer, different chisels, one or two wallboard knives, a caulking gun, putty knife, and a framing square. You might also need a carpentry knife, wrecking bar, a rubber mallet, and of course nails.
In order to replace ceramic tiles you’ll need an awl, a pair of tile cutters, good quality nippers, a utility knife, a drawing compass, a grout float, various small hammers, and wood tile. You’re going to want hand or power stiff-bristled brushes. Some other supplies for the basement will include masonry primer, waterproof masonry sealers, ordinary household cleaners, a large container, and a heavy-duty sponge.
It’s quite straightforward to patch or repair a ceiling. You’ll need a drill, wallboard knife, chisels, and a square, utility knife. When remodeling or refinishing your floors or walls you’ll want to have some specific tools. Leatherman Tools are a respected quality multi-tool company that manufactures and sells the ‘multi-tool.’ That means that their tools will perform as many as nineteen different jobs. You won’t need that over weight tool box again. Leatherman suggests compressing your toolbox into one DIY tool.
When working on basement walls and you may be interested to learn that Stanley Tools manufactures and designs quality tools. There is an array of Stanley hand planes, saws, tri-squares, chisels, screwdrivers, utility knives (know widely as the Stanley Knife). They also supply or manufacture safety shoes and clothing, under the name of Bostitch. This has been an overview article with some brand name suggestions.
Read More..
You will need some of your common hand tools such as a grading rake, line leveler, and hand tamp. You’ll aso require a common garden rake and wheel barrow, in order to work around your home foundation, Are you thinking of doing some interior work? And you’ll need to pull together drills and screwdrivers. Well you’re at tit find a hammer, paintbrushes, and scrapers. You’ll likely find a glue gun, pliers, and awl helpful. For more extensive interior design a roller, set of wallboard knives and tile pliers will be needed. You might want to round out the tool kit with a type of stud finder, syringe and adhesive applicator.
For example to facilitate repairs to the plaster, you’ll need a paintbrush and a wallboard knife. Plaster restoration requires more supplies and materials than it does tools. When repairing plaster, numerous hand tools will help. For drywall repair or installation, you will require a hammer, different chisels, one or two wallboard knives, a caulking gun, putty knife, and a framing square. You might also need a carpentry knife, wrecking bar, a rubber mallet, and of course nails.
In order to replace ceramic tiles you’ll need an awl, a pair of tile cutters, good quality nippers, a utility knife, a drawing compass, a grout float, various small hammers, and wood tile. You’re going to want hand or power stiff-bristled brushes. Some other supplies for the basement will include masonry primer, waterproof masonry sealers, ordinary household cleaners, a large container, and a heavy-duty sponge.
It’s quite straightforward to patch or repair a ceiling. You’ll need a drill, wallboard knife, chisels, and a square, utility knife. When remodeling or refinishing your floors or walls you’ll want to have some specific tools. Leatherman Tools are a respected quality multi-tool company that manufactures and sells the ‘multi-tool.’ That means that their tools will perform as many as nineteen different jobs. You won’t need that over weight tool box again. Leatherman suggests compressing your toolbox into one DIY tool.
When working on basement walls and you may be interested to learn that Stanley Tools manufactures and designs quality tools. There is an array of Stanley hand planes, saws, tri-squares, chisels, screwdrivers, utility knives (know widely as the Stanley Knife). They also supply or manufacture safety shoes and clothing, under the name of Bostitch. This has been an overview article with some brand name suggestions.
Monday, February 10, 2014
The Vagaries Of The Hunt for old tools
Rule #1 in the hunt for old tools is: “Things are not always predictable.” This rule is often expressed as “You just never know.”
A corollary rule (let’s call it 1A), is “Be persistent.” This rule is often expressed as “Let’s stop here. They look like they might have old tools.”
Let me illustrate these two rules by way of example.
Last year, I was down in Southern Oregon over spring break. I saw that the annual Antique Show was being held on the weekend. It cost $4 to get in the door, and catered towards the collectors. This should NOT have been a good place to look for old tools – but, being a big believer in rule #1, I went. And I scored big. I found a Stanley #62 low angle jack in great shape for under $100 dollars. Not cheap, but a very good price on this plane in this condition. And its also where I found the infamous cigarette "nib" card. Sweet! Totally worth my time and $4 door fee!
Here’s the #62:

Flash forward to this year. Again I am in Oregon for spring break (family). Again the Antique Show is being held. Again I go, pay my $4 to get in and – strike out. There is nothing, NOTHING, there worth buying. In fact, one of the only hand tools I can find is a battered Stanley 120 with a tag attached explaining the page number in a book that set the price of this junker at $85. Wow! I’m out the door in 20 minutes.
That’s Rule #1 – you just never know…
Now, on the way home Rule 1A came into play. After the disappointment suffered at the show, all I wanted was to go have a burger and a milkshake. However, as I cruised down the road I came across a mini-storage complex with a “flea market” sign at the side of the road. Hmm. I slowed down for a closer look - mostly clothes, videos and car tires. Not a chance. But maybe…
I turned around, went back and parked. I started walking the rows of the complex and it was not looking good. Lots, and lots of junk. And, it was incredibly random. There would be a table set up in front of an open unit – and on the table would be a shoebox full of used plastic cigarette lighters, a bag of sand, a pile of plastic picture frames with no glass, empty perfume bottles, some jugs of anti-freeze and a flat of fresh limes.
But I kept walking, and eventually it paid off. I found “the tool guy”, and although I didn’t get anything amazing, I did get some nice old tools at a great price.

I scored: four old wood handled screwdrivers, a nice pair of 6” Sargent & Co. dividers, a pencil sharpener, and a Stanley #42X saw set in pretty good shape. And the total price was $9. Awesome!
Rule #1A rocks!
Monday, January 27, 2014
a 60 wide slab of claro walnut


well, we got a big one here. its going to aspen when its finished. this is the widest slab of claro walnut we have ever had ... it clocks in at 63" at the wide point ... after we trim it up a bit, it will be about 60" wide at both ends and about 8 long. it will have one of our new trapezoid bases. click the photos to enlarge them....

couple close ups of the rough slab here ... were working on it in my garage as were a little jammed up at the shop at the moment.

couple close ups of the rough slab here ... were working on it in my garage as were a little jammed up at the shop at the moment.


heres the cad drawing

will and trevor wheeled it out to the shade by the woodshed yesterday to begin the flattening process. fire up the makitas ...

will and trevor wheeled it out to the shade by the woodshed yesterday to begin the flattening process. fire up the makitas ...

the slab was astonishingly flat for something so wide ... a tribute to skip and norman at good hope hardwoods and their ability to dry this stuff so we can work it up. its truly amazing. that really is a four foot level there on the right end. the winding sticks are about 45" i think.

time ran out before they could completely smooth the face, but the bottom side is pretty much ready to sand and they should be able to finish this side today ... more later as we progress.

today we finished the rough smoothing of the top of the slab, did some rough sanding and mocked up the base with some 2 x 4s we had from when we picked it up at our friends loading dock.

just like this only in natural finish steel .. all for now
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Finally I cut a piece of wood
I guess this is where the rubber hits the road, so-to-speak. I have spent some serious time and used up a lot of space explaining where Im headed so I guess it is time to start to deal with how I am getting there.
The first step on the agenda was to cut all the pieces to length for the framework for the left door. For this I used a Stanley 150 miter box and a disgusting 1980s vintage Disston 14" backsaw.



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As I mentioned before, I chopped up the lengths of walnut at the hardwood yard into 37" pieces as this is the longest material I will need to build the frames and racks. I knew there is going to be some waste, but trying to haul a bunch of 8 long pieces of lumber in the back of a Mini just wasnt going to work. I got all the stock milled up using - ahem - power tools and I was ready to rock.
The first step on the agenda was to cut all the pieces to length for the framework for the left door. For this I used a Stanley 150 miter box and a disgusting 1980s vintage Disston 14" backsaw. I know I have spoken quite a bit about my old man in this blog, but when you are working with tools that your father made his living with over his lifetime they take on some serious sentimental value. This old Stanley miter box wasnt his, but there is a connection.
When I was a kid around 10 or 12, I built what we called, hotrods. I built them out of scrap lumber I found, cutting up the pieces and nailing them together. I used lengths of pipe and cold rolled steel as axles held to the cross pieces with bent-over nails. A piece of 2x4 mounted to the so-called body by any bolt I could find served as steering and a rope and my feet served as controls. I used an old lawn mower engine mounted on the back which drove the rear live axle using a belt. Because the thing didnt have brakes, nor could I afford a clutch, I would set it up so the belt would slip if there was any serious resistance to forward motion. Putting my feet to the ground, pulling back on the rope and putting as much pressure on the ground as I could muster seemed to always get the thing stopped - eventually. Usually they didnt last long as they would shake apart in a matter of a day or two.
This type of miter box was exactly the same as what my dad used to cut trim work for the houses he built. Being a fuss-busket, I used it once to get all my cuts square on one of these hotrods I was building at the time. The build day was cut short on the account of rain and while I seemed to have stored everything else away properly, I guess, in an ADHD moment, I forgot to put the miter box away, leaving it out in the rain. I dont remember all of the particulars of the event but I sure do remember my father coming in one night after work holding a very ruined miter box in one hand and waving a fist at me with the other. Man, did I catch it, not only the day he found it with the wood base all twisted and some serious rust going on, but also the day he threw it in the trash, announcing that it was beyond saving. The funny thing is, I dont ever remember him replacing it so I have no idea what he used after that. He must have, but I never saw what he replaced it with. I guess he was afraid I would mess that one up too, so he hid it from me and over the years he forgot where he hid it.
Anyway, one day I was cruising eBay and came across the exact same miter box. Man, did that bring back memories. Of course I bought it, paying $15.00 for it, and if I remember right, $25.00 to get it shipped, but I didnt care. When it arrived and I unpacked it, I felt good. Not only was it the exact same article, it was in even better shape than I remembered his to be, this one being new/old stock with the hardware stores $15.75 price still marked on the base with a grease pencil. It took me almost 50 years, but I finally made that mistake right.
Back to the cabinet. I am cutting a 1/8" bead around each of the rack frames just to give a shadow line and give some definition. Once I got all the pieces cut to size I then ran the bead with my Ohio Tool beading plane. While I love this tool, I did make a huge mistake with it, but in my defense, it was the first one I ever held in my hands, let alone used.

When it arrived (another purchase from eBay), I took it apart and cleaned it using turpentine, rubbing it down with #0000 steelwool. I can hear the collectors groan as I write this but I will make no apologies. I cant see any craftsman worth his weight letting his tools get in the condition of some I have seen collectors drool over. To me, a tool is only worth anything if it is usable and to be usable it has to be clean, polished and sharp. Anyhow, the mistake I made was once I got it clean I gave it a couple of serious coats of wax, wedge and all. Trust me, I shant make that mistake again. I have tried cleaning the wedge with solvents a few times but when I wax something, I guess I really wax it. The tool works fine for a while but eventually the wax wins and the wedge looses its grip. Eventually, I hope to get it so it stays but for now, I have to live with my mistake.
With all the pieces that require a bead completed, I then brought the flat down level with the bottom of the bead using a #78 Stanley, another tool from my dads kit. To ensure that I dont damage the bead I used the plane to cut a rabbet along the length of a piece of scrap poplar the depth of the bead. I then clamp this to the walnut so it hides the bead and can be used as a guide to ensure the shoulder is square. This lightens up the look of the wood considerably and gives a clean line around the tool display, much like a frame.

I guess you have figured out that Im big on the aesthetics, no matter what I am building. This is one of the reasons I love old tools so much - they truly are pleasing to the eye. I wish I could afford British made tools because they had the look of a tool down to a fine art. In reality, I guess I could afford British tools, but its the shipping to get them over here that would break the bank. I wonder why that is, though - not the expensive shipping but the fact that their tools are so much prettier than ours.
I finished up all of the bead work, gave everything a good sanding with 80 grit, then 120 grit sandpaper, and now I am ready to cut all the dovetails to get this thing together.

I know some of you will look at these photos and think to yourselves, "What the devil is he working on?" Actually, it is some other companys answer to the Black and Decker WorkMate. Its junk, but remember, my shop is on my balcony and with patio furniture, barbecue and your wifes flower pots taking up a lot of room out there, you have to have something that is collapsable and storable so you get to work another day.
One other point before I close off. One of the main reasons for posting this blog is to get feedback from other woodworks. If you see something that I am doing wrong or just know a better way of doing it, I would greatly appreciate the help. It is only criticism if you dont offer up a better way of doing something so I hope you will be free with your comments.
Peace,
Mitchell
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